Bathroom Renovation Order: What Comes First and Which Tradies Do You Need? in australia
The order a bathroom renovation follows in Australia runs through eight stages, starting with demolition and ending with cleanup. What comes first is rough-in plumbing and electrical work, followed by waterproofing, tiling, fixture installation, painting, and final connections. The whole process usually takes three to five weeks for a typical Brisbane home, assuming no structural surprises. You will need tradies including a licensed plumber, electrician, waterproofer, tiler, and often a painter. Getting the sequence right prevents costly rework.
What a bathroom renovation actually involves
A bathroom renovation is the planned removal and replacement of fixtures, surfaces, and services in a wet area. It’s not just swapping a vanity or putting new tiles over old ones. The work changes how water enters, drains, and stays out of your walls. Homeowners in Queensland tackle this to fix leaks, update an old layout, or add value before selling.
The biggest misconception is that you can do the jobs in any order as long as they get done. That isn’t true. Water and electricity must be routed before walls close up. Waterproofing must cure completely before a single tile goes down. If you skip ahead, you trap moisture or force a tradesperson to cut through finished work.
You don’t need a builder for every job, but you do need licensed trades. In Queensland, plumbing and electrical work must be done by someone holding the right license. Doing it yourself or hiring an unlicensed worker voids your insurance and breaks state law. The Queensland Building and Construction Commission sets out exactly which tasks require a licensed contractor and which permits apply to your property.
This project isn’t for someone wanting a weekend cosmetic refresh. If you’re only changing a mirror or a showerhead, you don’t need this sequence. But if you’re pulling up floors or moving pipes, you’re doing a full renovation.
The mechanism that makes the order matter is simple. Wet areas rely on layers. Each layer protects the one below it. Plumbing sits inside the frame, waterproofing seals the frame, and tiles protect the membrane. Reversing that order traps water against timber, causing rot you won’t see until the floor sags.
Steps for bathroom renovation order and which tradies come first
Follow these bathroom renovation steps in exact order. Changing the sequence causes delays and extra costs. A typical bathroom in Brisbane measuring around 2 by 3 meters takes about 15 to 25 working days from start to finish, assuming materials arrive on time.
Plan and book trades. Finalize your layout and order all fixtures before demolition starts. Book your plumber, electrician, waterproofer, and tiler weeks ahead. If you wait until the room is stripped to call them, you’ll lose days waiting for availability.
Demolition. Turn off the water and power to the room first. Strip out tiles, fixtures, plasterboard, and old pipes down to the timber frame. A standard demolition takes 1 to 2 days. Wear a P2 mask, because older homes may contain dust you shouldn’t breathe.
Rough-in plumbing and electrical. The plumber moves drain points and installs new water pipes. The electrician runs cables for lights, exhaust fans, and power points. This takes 2 to 3 days. Both trades must hold current Queensland licenses. Don’t let anyone cap pipes without pressure testing them first.
Wall sheeting and floor prep. Install water-resistant plasterboard or fiber cement sheets. The floor needs to be level and clean. Allow 1 to 2 days. If the floor slopes more than a few millimeters over a meter, the tiler will struggle later.
Waterproofing. Apply the liquid or sheet membrane to the floor, up the walls 150mm, and fully inside the shower recess. This takes 2 to 3 days including drying time. Never rush the curing period. Tiling over a damp membrane destroys the bond.
Tiling. Lay floor tiles first, then wall tiles, unless your tiler prefers a specific method for your layout. Grouting follows once the adhesive sets. Expect 3 to 5 days for a standard room.
Painting and fixture installation. Paint the ceiling and any non-tiled walls. Then the plumber returns to install the toilet, vanity, taps, and showerhead. The electrician fits the lights and fan. This takes 2 to 3 days.
Silicone sealing and cleanup. Apply silicone to all joints where tiles meet fixtures. Let it cure for 24 hours before turning the water back on. Remove all rubbish.
The single judgment call that separates a good result from a bad one happens between step 5 and 6. You must check the membrane is fully cured and undamaged before letting the tiler start. If it feels tacky, wait another day. Rushing this step costs thousands in leak repairs later.
If your renovation involves moving load-bearing walls, stop here. That requires a structural engineer and a building permit. Don’t attempt it with just a carpenter.
Bathroom renovation numbers and settings
These figures apply to a standard 6-square-meter bathroom in Brisbane. If your room is larger, add roughly half a day per extra square meter for labor-heavy steps like tiling and waterproofing. Keep this table handy when scheduling your trades.
Situation | What to use | How long | What to watch for |
|---|---|---|---|
Demolition of standard room | Crowbar, reciprocating saw, heavy bags | 1–2 days | Hidden asbestos in pre-1990 homes; turn off mains first |
Moving plumbing points | Licensed plumber, copper or PEX pipe | 2–3 days | Pressure test new lines before closing walls |
Electrical rough-in | Licensed electrician, 2.5mm cable for power | 1–2 days | Ensure exhaust fan vents outside, not into roof cavity |
Applying waterproof membrane | Polyurethane liquid or sheet membrane | 2–3 days | Must cure fully; check manufacturer’s stated dry time |
Laying floor and wall tiles | Porcelain or ceramic, flexible adhesive | 3–5 days | Floor must be level; allow adhesive to set before grouting |
Painting non-tiled surfaces | Low-sheen ceiling paint, semi-gloss trim | 1–2 days | Use mold-resistant paint; ensure room is ventilated |
Installing fixtures | Plumber and electrician return | 2–3 days | Don’t overtighten tap fittings onto new tiles |
Silicone sealing joints | Neutral-cure bathroom silicone | 1 day plus 24h cure | Wipe excess immediately; don’t use water for 24 hours |
Always read the specific instructions on your chosen products. The drying times above assume Brisbane’s typical humidity. During a wet summer week, membranes and adhesives take longer to cure. If the product label says 48 hours at 25 degrees, give it that full time.
Getting the details right during a bathroom renovation
Preparation decides the outcome before the first tool is picked up. Order your vanity, toilet, and tiles weeks ahead. If the vanity arrives and the waste pipe doesn’t align with the drawer space, you’ll either move the plumbing again or buy a new cabinet. Measure the exact location of every pipe and stud before demolition. Take photos of the exposed framing once the old plaster is gone. You’ll need those photos when mounting heavy mirrors or grab rails later.
The order you bring tradespeople into the room matters just as much as the work they do. The plumber and electrician must finish their rough-ins together before the walls are closed. If the electrician comes after the plasterboard goes up, they have to cut holes, creating dust that settles on fresh waterproofing. Dust ruins the bond between the membrane and the tile adhesive. Sweep and vacuum the room thoroughly after sheeting and before the waterproofer arrives.
Check the work partway through, not just at the end. Once the waterproofing is applied, look for pinholes, especially in corners and around pipe penetrations. These spots fail first. Run your hand lightly over the dried membrane. It should feel smooth and rubbery, not gritty or peeling. If you find a thin spot, brush on another coat before anyone walks on it.
Leave things alone when they need to rest. Don’t open windows to speed up drying if it’s raining outside. Humidity slows curing, but rain blowing in destroys it. Don’t walk on newly laid tiles for at least 24 hours, even if they look set. The adhesive underneath is still soft. Stepping on a corner too early creates a hollow sound underfoot that never goes away.
Finally, know what you shouldn’t touch. If you find termite damage or rotted timber during demolition, don’t patch it yourself. Call a pest inspector or carpenter. Covering up structural rot with new sheeting hides a problem that will eventually collapse your floor.
Fixing common problems during the renovation
Things go wrong when steps overlap or materials aren’t suited to the climate. Here is what to look for and how to react before the next trade arrives.
What you notice | What it usually means | What to do first |
|---|---|---|
Membrane is sticky after 48 hours | Humidity prevented proper curing | Leave it alone; run a dehumidifier and wait another day |
Tiles sound hollow when tapped | Adhesive didn’t bond or spread evenly | Remove affected tiles, scrape back to substrate, relay them |
Water pools in shower corner | Floor wasn’t graded toward the drain | Stop tiling; the screed needs to be adjusted by the tiler |
New vanity doesn’t fit the space | Measurements were taken before demolition shifted walls | Check if plumbing can move slightly before cutting the cabinet |
Exhaust fan drips condensation | Duct vents into the roof space instead of outside | Reroute ducting through the eaves or roof cowl |
Power trips when new lights turn on | Circuit is overloaded or wired incorrectly | Turn off power; the electrician must test the circuit |
Don’t ignore small issues hoping the next trade will cover them. A tiler can’t fix a sloping floor with adhesive. A painter can’t seal a leaking pipe joint. Stop the line, fix the root cause, and only then move forward.
If you smell gas or see sparks during the rough-in phase, leave the room immediately. Turn off the mains if it’s safe to reach the switch. Only a licensed electrician or gas fitter should handle live faults.
Permits and licensing rules in Queensland
You can’t hire just anyone with a ute and a toolbox. Queensland law requires specific licenses for plumbing, drainage, and electrical work. The Queensland Building and Construction Commission (QBCC) regulates building work across the state. Any waterproofing work must comply with Australian Standard AS 3740, and the person applying it should hold a QBCC license for that trade.
Plumbing and drainage work requires a licensed plumber. You can’t legally connect a toilet or move a shower drain yourself. The plumber must provide a Form 4 (Compliance Certificate) to the local council upon completion. Without this form, your home insurance may refuse a claim if a leak causes damage later.
Electrical work follows the same strict path. Only a licensed electrician can install new wiring, power points, or hardwired lighting. They must test the circuits and issue an electrical safety certificate. Working on electrical systems without a license carries heavy fines and immediate danger.
For a standard bathroom swap where the layout stays mostly the same, you might not need a full building approval from your local Brisbane council. However, if you’re moving walls, altering the footprint, or changing the external structure, a building permit is required. Check with your local council directly, as rules vary slightly between Brisbane City Council and surrounding Queensland regions.
If your home was built before 1990, you must consider asbestos. Disturbing asbestos sheeting during demolition is a serious health risk. If you suspect it’s present, hire a licensed asbestos removalist before any other work begins. Don’t guess; have it tested.
Keeping the new bathroom in good shape
Once the tradies leave and the silicone cures, the maintenance phase begins. A well-built bathroom lasts decades, but only if you treat the wet areas properly.
Ventilation is your best defense against mold. Run the exhaust fan during showers and leave it on for 15 minutes afterward. If your fan has a timer, set it. Trapped moisture attacks grout and ceiling paint first.
Wipe down glass and tiles after heavy use. Hard water in parts of Queensland leaves mineral deposits that etch into glass over time. A quick squeegee pass prevents buildup that requires harsh chemicals later. Those chemicals can break down silicone seals.
Check the silicone joints around the vanity, shower base, and bath as needed depending on use, following your owner’s manual as the authority. If you see peeling or black spots that don’t wash off, the seal has failed. Scrape it out completely, dry the gap with a hair dryer, and apply fresh neutral-cure silicone. Don’t just smear new silicone over old mold. It won’t stick, and water will track behind it.
Keep a folder with your compliance certificates, warranty cards for fixtures, and the contact numbers of the trades who did the work. If a tap drips or a tile lifts in year two, you need to know who installed it and what warranty applies.
Clean drains monthly by flushing them with hot water. Avoid chemical drain cleaners. They can corrode or soften pipes and fittings over time. If a drain slows down, use a plunger or call the plumber back.
When a full strip-out is the wrong choice
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Not every tired bathroom needs to be gutted to the frame. Stripping everything out costs significantly more and keeps your only toilet out of action for weeks. If the existing layout works and the pipes are sound, a partial update might be better.
If your tiles are solid, flat, and firmly attached, you can sometimes tile directly over them using a specialized primer and flexible adhesive. This saves demolition time and disposal fees. However, it raises the floor height, which means trimming doors and adjusting the toilet flange. If the floor is already high, don’t do this.
If the plumbing is fine but the vanity and toilet are dated, swap the fixtures and repaint. This takes days, not weeks. You avoid the risky waterproofing and tiling stages entirely. Just ensure the new vanity matches the existing waste pipe location.
If you discover major structural rot or widespread termite damage during demolition, a standard bathroom renovation approach stops being enough. You now have a structural repair project. Pause the bathroom work. Bring in a structural engineer and a licensed builder to fix the frame first. Trying to waterproof and tile over compromised timber guarantees failure.
Frequently asked questions
What comes first in a bathroom renovation?
Demolition comes first. You must strip the room back to the frame before any new plumbing or electrical work begins. Removing old tiles, plaster, and fixtures clears the way for trades to access the walls and floor. Never try to install new pipes over old surfaces.
How long does a bathroom renovation take in Australia?
A standard renovation takes 3 to 5 weeks from demolition to final cleanup. This assumes a typical 6-square-meter room and that all materials are on site. Delays happen if you change the layout mid-project or wait for custom vanities to ship.
Do I need a licensed plumber for a bathroom renovation in Queensland?
Yes. Queensland law requires a licensed plumber for any work involving water supply or drainage. You can’t legally install a toilet, move a shower drain, or alter pipes yourself. Always ask for their plumbing license number before work starts.
Can I tile over existing bathroom tiles?
Yes, but only if the old tiles are perfectly flat, firmly bonded, and the floor height allows it. You must use a specific primer designed for tiling over tiles. If the old tiles are loose or the floor will become too high for the door, remove them first.
How much does waterproofing need to cover?
The waterproof membrane must cover the entire shower floor and extend up the shower walls to at least 1800mm. On the main bathroom floor, it must go up the walls by 150mm. Around the vanity and toilet, the floor needs full coverage. Follow Australian Standard AS 3740.
Is it safe to stay home during bathroom demolition?
It’s safe if the work area is sealed off, but it’s noisy and dusty. Turn off the water and power to that room. If your home was built before 1990, test for asbestos before anyone swings a hammer. Breathing old dust is the main risk.
Why does my new bathroom smell musty?
A musty smell usually means poor ventilation or trapped moisture. Check that the exhaust fan vents outside the house, not just into the roof space. If the fan works correctly, the waterproof membrane might not have cured before tiling, trapping moisture underneath.
Conclusion
Getting the sequence right protects your budget and your home. Every trade relies on the one before them finishing properly. Book your licensed contractors early, respect the drying times, and keep your compliance paperwork safe. A well-planned project runs smoothly, leaving you with a space that works exactly as it should.